Most major tire manufacturers offer several lines of tires. What is a “discount “tire?  These are usually entry level tires designed to meet the minimum manufacturers specifications and allow brand name recognition, at a lower cost.   They will generally have a shorter tread life and not offer the same ride quality as other tires with the same manufactures name. The first step up would be a mid-line tire, one designed for a little more comfort and longevity.   This tire is moderately priced and usually the best value. The third line would be the tier three tires – a tire that is the softest, quietest, and has the latest technology engineered into its construction.   Often referred to as the “Cadillac” of tires, they are usually the more expensive choice and though they may not last as long, they make up for it in reduced road noise and greater ride comfort. When choosing your tires, make sure you know what your vehicle requires by looking in the owner’s manual, or on the drivers front door jam.

Tire condition is of the utmost importance. The minimum tread depth for the State of Texas is 2/32nds of an inch.  An easy way to determine if a tire is close to the limit is to look for the wear bars spaced out across the tire tread. They sit in the grooves of the tread. If the tread is worn down to the bar, the tire needs replacement.  Another common tread depth test is placing a penny upside down in the groove and if the top of Abe’s head is visible, then the tire needs to be replaced. Both of these methods are just an estimate and the only way to know the exact tread depth, is to measure it with a tread depth gauge. Other tire conditions to consider are wear pattern and dry rotting (cracking).

Keeping your tires properly inflated and rotated is important to the tread life.  With tire prices always on the rise, getting the most out of your tires has become a major priority.  Rotating your tires every 6,000 miles is the best way of ensuring the maximum service life, as long as steering and suspension components are not worn.  Visually inspecting the tires at the time of rotation greatly aid in determining if alignment issues are present.   You should schedule an alignment check once a year, or when your tires are showing uneven or choppy wear.

Other than the physical condition of your tires, you should be familiar with all the information provided on the sidewall.  Most vehicles have a sticker on the front driver’s door or door jam that gives the manufacturers specs for the tire. This info is important because it tells the owner of the proper size, load range, and speed rating for the vehicle. The size of the tire should not be changed since the ABS, traction control and speedometer calibration may be seriously affected.  The width of the tire is important because it is the grip of the tire. It also allows proper braking of the vehicle. The load range of the tire is set to support the weight of the vehicle with its maximum occupancy and payload.  The speed rating is set for the maximum speed the vehicle is designed to go for ten minutes of operation before tire failure.

The side of a tire gives you all of its information. These are examples of sidewall information:

P225/60R16…91H – The “225” is the width in mm. The “60” is the aspect ratio; i.e. the height of the sidewall is 60% of the tread width.  The “91” is the load carrying capacity- it has a reference chart to determine the actual load. The “H” is the speed rating; it also has a chart to reference. The higher the speed rating, the softer the rubber compound is. When purchasing tires, you should always make sure the load and speed rating match what the manufacture requires.

LT235/85R16E….104T – The tire size breaks down the same as above. The only thing different is the “LT” stands for light truck instead of “P” for passenger tire, and the “E” is the load range for the light truck tire. Sometimes it will be written like this: LT235/85R16…104T….Load Range E. The load range of the tire is the ply rating of the tire sidewalls.

Ply ratings are as follows: P=4ply, XL=6ply, C=6ply, D=8ply, E=10ply, ect.

The DOT number on a tire tells you the location, batch, and date the tire was made. The last four digits of the DOT are the date code. The first two numbers are the week it was made and the last two numbers are the year. If the last four numbers of the DOT was 2911, that would mean the tire was manufactured on the 29^th week of 2011. The overall life of a tire is about 6 years, depending on driving habits and conditions.

Whew! That’s a ton of stuff to know about a tire, we agree. But all of it is important. If you have any questions or concerns about tires on YOUR ride we recommend you make an appointment as soon as possible. There are no “dumb” questions when it comes to where the rubber meets the road!

There can be no denying our vehicles’ evolution progress in the way of technology in the last decade. New cars and trucks are crammed with control modules of all sorts, each with separate software to perform advanced design functions.

Inter-module communication allows multiple control modules to “see” and discern important sensor data, relating to everything from ambient air temperature, to independent wheel speed. This information is communicated via an information “bus,” similar to a network communication path you might see at your home or business.

Module, network, and software failures and malfunctions are on a sharp increase in the last 5 years. The more complex the design features of the vehicle, the more prone the make is to such bugs.

Some car makers are making it increasingly difficult and costly for repair facilities to obtain the necessary technical information and software updates to repair such failures. Never fear! We at Central Automotive strive to present you with an alternative to having to take your car to the dealer.

Each year our staff evaluates and upgrades our software and scan tool capabilities.  Our technicians attend monthly training in a host of subjects, ranging from climate control to engine performance. Accurate diagnostics translate to speedy and economical repairs.

What is that little light all about? Well, it’s complicated – but then again it isn’t. The check engine light, or malfunction indicator lamp, is the most common customer concern documented in recent years. Sometimes it is associated with a drivability concern, sometimes it comes on for what seems like no apparent reason.

By federal law, car makers have to illuminate thecheck engine light if a vehicle failure results in excessive emissions. The failure can range from a simple gas cap, to far more complex sensors or actuators and sometimes even control modules or other mechanical problems.

It is very important that this condition NOT be taken lightly if it happens to occur to your ride. You should definitely take the time to have a repair facility perform a complete diagnostic. At Central Automotive the diagnostic process is the key to efficient and complete repair.

A car cannot be fixed by “turning the light out.”  Scan tools are intended to help the technician determine the nature of the failure that is causing excessive emissions – they are not intended to simply “clear codes” that may be stored for the purpose of providing important diagnostic data. The longer the light stays on, the more likely the vehicle is to have cascading faults relating to the check engine light.

Your vehicle’s brake systems are of the highest priority! There are many ways brake system failures can “domino” into larger problems. Any abnormal noise associated with braking should be examined by a technician as soon as possible. Some brake types have wear sensors, or “squealers”, that function as a warning to owners that service is due. These devices produce a noise that goes away when the brake pedal is depressed.

An ounce of prevention really does go a long way here. I highly recommend you come in and schedule a brake check/tire rotation (optional tire balance) at least once a year. The more miles a driver accrues annually the more often the brake check/tire rotation should be performed. Good driving habits can and will increase the life of your vehicle’s brake linings and surfaces.

Some facilities will menu price brake work and then up-sell as much as they possibly can – - those things that fall outside of the “fine print” describing what you get for your $49.95. We feel the final estimate should only be written after a thorough inspection is performed.  It’s really the only way to be fair. Technicians measure rotor thickness and drum diameter, which plays a big role in the most cost effective, long lasting, trouble free repair available.

Gas prices may have come down from the highs in April and May, but the average cost to fill up a tank still hits the wallet hard.  Here are some tips you may not know about that will help you save gas and save money.

1. Turn off your AC

The AC’s compressor puts more strain on your car’s motor, and in turn uses more fuel.  When we get cooler weather in the Spring and Fall it’s time to turn off the air conditioner, roll down the windows, and let nature regulate our vehicle’s climate.  Park in the shade when possible and, if you feel like it’s safe, leave your windows open a crack.  If you have to use your AC turn it off a few minutes before you reach your destination.

2. Check your tire pressure

Under- or over-inflated tires can cut down on fuel efficiency by up to 2%.  Buy a cheap air gauge, stick it in your glove box, and when you’re waiting for your tank to fill up check all your tires.  It will only take a minute or two.  Check your manual to see what your PSI should be and adjust accordingly.  Many gas stations charge a dollar to use the air pump so it might be worth it to find one that’s free.

3. Use cruise control and overdrive

If you live out of town or are driving on a highway in a larger city without much traffic use your cruise control and make sure your overdrive is on (newer models usually have a button to turn overdrive off and on, while older models may have a regular drive and overdrive gear you can shift into–check your manual if you aren’t sure).

4. Drive slower

When going distances between about 50 and 100 miles, driving faster isn’t going to get you there that much faster.  Slowing down just 5 mph can have a substantial effect on your fuel consumption.

5. Roll up windows on the highway

While having your windows rolled down around town or at low speeds, keeping them down while going faster increases drag and uses more fuel.  Keeping them down a crack won’t create as much drag as keeping them all the way down.

6. Brake and accelerate properly

Many drivers, especially in heavy traffic, slam on both pedals as they lurch through traffic.  This eats up a lot of gas.  Instead, try accelerating and braking slowly–sometimes you can simply roll along without having to use either pedal.

7. Shift into neutral

When sitting still shifting into neutral will help cool your transmission and give it a break.

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As the weather gets cooler–even colder on some nights–you should start getting your vehicle ready for the lower temperatures.  If you didn’t get a tune-up at the end of summer you should get one now before winter hits.  A full engine tune-up is best–your vehicle manual will have anything more specific that needs to get done.  Filters, oils, and coolants should all be checked.

If you’ve noticed your brakes making a funny sound and have put off getting them checked, now is the time to do it.  You don’t want to find yourself in icy conditions with brakes that aren’t at their best.

The colder the weather gets the more likely an old battery won’t work well.  If it’s been more than four or five years since you replaced your battery it might be time to invest in a new one.  It’s better to play it safe and get a new one if yours is reaching the end of its life instead of getting stuck in a place where you can’t find a jump.

On cold mornings letting your vehicle warm up for a few minutes ensures proper engine lubrication, plus it’s always nicer to slide into a warm car than a frigid one.  Go easy on the engine and don’t speed up quickly, going a little slower for the first couple of miles–you won’t lose that much time!

We can also make custom recommendations based on what we see in your vehicle.  Bring it in and let us help you prepare!

As the temperature starts dropping and summer starts coming to an end, it’s time to prepare your vehicle for autumn.  Here’s list of the top 6 things you can do to help your car or truck transition into the fall with no problems.

1. Check all fluids

People tend to only think of engine oil when reminded to check auto fluids, but there are a lot of fluids that have been drained by keeping your vehicle cool in the hot summer months.   Your engine and radiator use coolant, and the brakes and transmission require lubricants and fluid.  Check your manual for a full list of fluids and where they go.  Typically there aren’t problems if you keep track of scheduled maintenance, but getting a check up never hurts.

Also due to the drought conditions in the Kerrville area contaminants like dust and dirt are finding their way into the nooks and crannies of your vehicle, so if you’re close to a scheduled maintenance it’s a good idea to take it in early.

2. Replace windshield wipers

Drivers might scoff at this tip as many in the area have forgotten what rain looks like, but wiper blades that haven’t been used can still lose their effectiveness.  Cleaning the dust off the windshield every few days can also take a toll on them, and at such a small expense it’s worth it to be ready for when rains do finally come.  If it’s been more than a year since you last changed them you should definitely change them now.

3. Take care of your tires

Check the tire pressure of all tires, including the spare.  Inflation pressure can be found on the side of the tire.  As temperature drops tires tend to lose air more rapidly.  Make sure you check them at least once a month.

If it’s been more than 5,000 miles since your last tire rotation now is a good time to do it.  Also make sure they are rain-ready by making sure there is still a good amount of tread.

4. Replace air filters

After a long, dusty summer make sure your air filters are replaced so your heater will be able to run smoothly when you need it.  It’s good to check air filters often in this dry weather.

5. Check the battery terminals and lights

Make sure the connections are solid and stable and tighten them if they are loose.  Check for any corrosion on the terminals and remove with a wire bristle brush.

Check your taillights and headlights.  As the days get shorter and the nights get longer you’ll find yourself driving in the dark more often–make sure other drivers will be able to see you.

6. Get a basic tune-up

If you haven’t had your yearly tune up now is a good time to get it.  Colder weather will make existing problems worse.

Central Automotive earned an 

Overall Customer Satisfaction

score of

100%

Thank you Kerrville!